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2011/11/07

珠寶般的Artyarns---褶襉絲綢上衣


To dear foreign visitors, welcome to my blog  .
My friend Michelle (she's the only artyarns retailer in Taiwan)told me that Artyarns shared this article on FB, I'm so honored !
Unfortunely my FB account was suspended month ago for unknown reason that I cannot join the conversation, so I decided to translate some key points into English.

The silk top was mainly knitted in plain jersey stitches, except 1x1 ribs at waistband & shoulders.
I pleated front piece with knife pleat, and box pleat in the center of back piece, using 3-needle bind off during the knitting process.
 This would create the drape look shown in photos. I found these books very helpful for learning how to pleat and drape: < drape drape>&<drape drape 2 > (written in Japanese, with paper pattern)
Finally, rim the collar and armholes with single crochet stitches, install the epaulet, they would bring out the subject and make a more refined look.

I was thinking about "jewelry" when I got Artyarns beaded silk 2 years ago, and finally practice my thoughts this summer, wish you like it, and if you like to see more of my works, please visit my flickr album.

從Michellle那裡買回這款Beaded Silk應該也有一年多到兩年的光景(時間過得真快,有點可怕啊!)
當初興致勃勃的跟Michelle討論了一堆可能性卻遲遲不出作品還真是有些過意不去
"這麼高級的手工線,應該是可以當成像珠寶般的點綴來用"
一方面是這線太過美麗,打整件太過奢華實在不是我的風格
另一方面是價錢超出我的消費能力,不好好規劃用途就太浪費了

考慮到Artyarns的Beaded Silk(色號106)是純絲質,搭配的主體也該門當戶對才行
於是又相中了毛毛語的蠶絲春秋紗和蠶絲涼夏緞帶紗(這兩款毛毛語獨家研發的線款已完售)
最終決定還是用黑色的緞帶紗"秀髮",來襯托106螢光綠.藍綠到艷藍紫的色彩


衣服的主體成形使用了裁縫裡的褶襉概念(參考書目:Drape Drape 1&2)
打褶所製造出來的皺褶感和純絲質緞帶紗本身優越的垂墜感的特性非常契合
點睛用的Artyarns只做了滾邊(領和袖口)和肩飾.飾帶,只用了半球
最後的一點小小心機其實就是在毫無彈性(蠶絲.棉麻.竹纖維的羅紋編沒有彈性可言)的下襬內側用鉤針鉤上一行縫紉用的極細鬆緊繩作為鬆緊帶用
這一招經過我的測試可是比編織時織入彈性線來的彈性更大而且方便許多

回想當初在編織和經營部落格的初始,目的就是要顛覆編織保守.休閒的調性
隨著材料選擇增加和有類似想法的網友不時發表作品,編織已經不再是老奶奶的閒暇手工消遣
至少穿這樣去參加酒會茶會還是什麼宴會都算不上失禮吧



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